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CAVE DOCCI WINERY | JAPAN TWO

CAVE DOCCI WINERY

>>日本語

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CAVE DOCCI WINERY is situated in Kakudahama, Niigata-shi, Niigata prefecture, near Japan Ocean. They grow grapes here by utilizing the natural features of this area. These grapes with their unique characteristics are then distilled into the domestic wine. It has been 20 years since CAVE DOCCI has been established. With the addition of the English garden filled with beautiful flowers, restaurant, hot spring, and accommodation, they have created a short-stay winery, where visitors can relax and enjoy their wine in a tranquil environment. Also, the wine village is gradually taking shape as the people who were drawn into wine-making are beginning to start up their businesses.

We have conducted an interview at CAVE DOCCI, where you can enjoy your wine with the view of the soaring Kakuda mountain and the immense vineyard, and by getting in touch with the local producers. The chief distiller Mr. Fumito Kakegawa will be showing us around.

There are 8 hectares of vineyard surrounding CAVE DOCCI, which is cradled in the foot of Kakuda mountain.

All of the grapes grown here is from the European variety. If you include both the grapes that are in experimental and in regular production, they are currently cultivating 11 red varieties and 10 white varieties, which comes to 21 in total.

At CAVE DOCCI, they are not aiming for wine that meets the international standard, but they spend their time and money in discovering the right grape variety that suits this land; The most important thing for them is to produce the best possible wine that brings out the unique characteristics of this variety.

There are several natural features that Mr. Kakegawa has found out by growing various types of grapes in Kakudahama, over a period of approximately 20 years:
The first feature is its soil. Although most of the Japanese wines are made from grapes grown in heavy clay-like soil, the Kakudahama's soil, where CAVE DOCCI is located, is dry like the beach sand.

As the soil gets sandier, the grapes' fragrance becomes stronger and the flavor becomes softer. In addition, in a sandy soil, the grapevines will always produce more grapes, and the plants won't grow too big so they're easier to maintain.

The second feature is its climate. Kakudahama is located near the ocean and the temperature does not drop significantly at night time. The grapes lose their acidity without the variation in temperature from day to night; the significant drop at night time is necessary. So by growing the grape varieties that have a light taste with a rich aroma and the ones with strong acidity, they were able to produce excellent wine.

However, they need to use sprinklers to water the grapes for the sandy soil that easily dries up. Without them the grape would wither and rot from the heat that builds up on the ground. Therefore, they have started cover cropping in order to maintain the moisture and decrease the ground temperature by growing grass. It's like killing two birds with one stone because you don't need to use herbicides.

They are also trying to reduce the amount of pesticide so, recently, they have been spraying EM (Effective Microorganisms) instead. By propagating the microorganisms that are harmless to humans, they can reduce the multiplication of bacteria that are harmful to grapes, resulting in a similar effect as using pesticides.

He mentions that a single grape variety can have different taste depending on the place they are cultivated and the age of the vine.
"The minute difference in taste, which cannot be sensed while eating the grapes, changes dramatically once they are converted into alcohol with the yeasts and made into wine. " (Mr. Kakegawa)

After the interview we were wondering how the tastes differ between the wine grapes and the regular table grapes, so we tried them out. They were actually really sweet! According to Mr. Kakegawa, the expensive Kyoho grapes that come in Paulownia boxes have a sugar content of 18 % more or less, and the Shine Muscat that recently came out is about 20 %. In comparison, the wine grapes' sugar content is 22% at the time of harvest. They are too sweet, their skin is thick, and they don't have much flesh. That is why they aren't suitable for eating.

The grapes are hand picked one by one during the harvest. Mr. Kakegawa expressed his passion towrads wine making, "If someone were to ask me if this location is ideal for wine-making, I would reply that it certainly is not the best place in the world. However, there are definitely wine that can be produced in this location, so I just want to strive for the best possible wine that can be made here." His future plan is to gradually narrow down the grape varieties and mass produce the ones that suit this location.

Now, let's move on to the heart of winery, “the distillation building.”

The grapes are processed and fermented in this building.
First, the stems are removed from the harvested grapes. Then, they are crushed and and the juice is extracted with the wine press.

Back then, they used iron plates for pressing, but when the seeds are crushed, they release components that produce bitterness and other unfavorable tastes. So nowadays, wine-press is used to gently extract the juice. They are gently squeezed without crushing the seeds, especially for white wine.

The white bladder within the machine expands like a balloon towards the center, and it gently crushes the grapes and extracts the juice.

Next, the extracted juice gets fermented. Red and white wine are processed differently so their fermentation tanks vary in shape.

For red wine, the skin, seeds and the extracted juice are poured and kept in this tank; the skin color and the ingredients from the seeds get transferred to the liquid while they are fermented. A large amount of carbon dioxide is released during the fermentation, which bonds to the grape skin and raise them to the surface. A mechanism to press these skins back down into the juice is necessary, so for red wine an open-style tank is used where the upper part of the tank is opened. All of red wine is fermented in this tank and only the liquid portion is transferred into an airtight tank or into a barrel to be ultimately stored in the barrel room.

In the case of white wine, ingredients such as the grape skin is not required, so they are immediately pressed on the day of the harvest. Once the skin and seeds are removed from the juice, it is poured into this tall airtight tank (which the upper portion is completely sealed) for fermentation. It is common to ferment white and rosé wine in this airtight tank. One of these tanks hold about 3000ℓ of wine. That is equal to 4000 bottles. Currently, there are 30 of these tanks at CAVE DOCCI, with 30 ~40 types of wine being produced.

Wine fermentation signifies the process which the microorganisms called yeasts consume the sugar in the grape juice, releasing alcohol; in this way the juice is converted into wine. During the process when the yeasts produce alcohol, it also releases other substances. Depending on the temperature range the substances produced vary. Since these substances change the wine's taste, you must make subtle temperature adjustments according to the concept of the wine you have in mind.

The hose that is wrapped around the tank is the cooling jacket that regulates the fermentation temperature. At CAVE DOCCI, they have been using the same equipments since its establishment 20 years ago. The tanks did not have a cooling system so they wrapped a hose around the tank and passed cold water to adjust the fermentation temperature.

Also we've found this unique reserve wine in the barrel room.

Reserve wine that was made from Chardonnay, harvested in 2002.

Reserve wine is a special wine which a certain amount of it is used to mix with sparkling wine. By adding 30 percent of this reserve wine into a recently fermented wine, you can make a high-quality sparkling wine that has freshness as well as boldness. When there's less reserve wine, the newly-made batch is added to the existing wine and kept at 2000ℓ. Recently they have been planning to increase the production of sparkling wine, so the amount of reserve wine has been increasing gradually.

According to Mr. Kakegawa, this reserve wine is not produced anywhere else in Japan. That is why, CAVE DOCCI's reserve wine has been lauded and has gained popularity domestically for its unique flavor.

Next, we'll enter the barrel room where the wine is aged.
The temperature in the barrel room is kept cool, to the point that it may feel a little chilly.

These barrels are the only things that add flavor to the wine made from grapes. The fragrance is added by aging the wine in the barrels.

Depending on the barrel, there are various differences in the fragrance: the strength, type, nuance and timing. The barrel's fragrance differ depending on the manufacturer, and even the barrels from the same manufacturer may vary depending on their age: the new barrels transfer the strong wooden fragrance into the wine, while the 10-year-old barrels pass less.

Also, the inside of the barrels are charred with a burner. Depending on amount that is burnt, the nuance changes: it can have caramel or chocolate notes. Among the barrels of varying characteristics, you must select the one that matches your wine concept. You then pour the wine into those barrels and let them build up the fragrance through aging.

Moreover, even for a single wine, you may use 3 different barrels to add the fragrances: one barrels is for the top note, the second is for the middle note and the last one is for the base. At the end, these can be mixed together to create a single wine. There are sophisticated wine that uses 10 different barrels to add various fragrances!

On the other hand, stainless steel tanks are used when you want to age wine that simply express the flavor from the grapes and the soil, without adding the fragrances from the barrels.

Wine-making is about visualizing the wine concept before production, and making it while thinking how it should be distilled to reach the wine you have in mind. Mr. Kakegawa said, "You must begin by thinking which grapes to grow and what kind of wine you want to make. Then you modify and make adjustments with the barrels and the aging period. Finally, you make them into the flavor that resembles your wine. You must always begin with the future concept and think backwards, adding further details."

Let's now move to the underground wine storage room where the bottled wines rest.

About 70,000 - 80,000 wine bottles can be stored here. They store wines that are on sale, wines that haven't been released, and wines that are being aged. Wine is a unique alcohol that can be aged within the bottle. There are wine that need to be aged in the bottle before being released. By aging them for 1~2 years, many significantly improve their fragrance and flavor.

However, there are number of problems concerning their storage period and space, so it is difficult to keep them for a long period. Also the majority of wine consumers would drink the wine within a week or a year after their purchase, so it's difficult for them to enjoy the wine at their best states.

These are wines that were stored after they had been released to the public, with the consideration that their flavors may improve with further maturation.

The maturation process for these wines are monitored and they are tasted from time to time; the ones in a good state are served at the restaurant.

We've found a strange machine in the far corner. Square cases filled with wine bottles are tilted on an angle.

These are machines called "Gyropalettes," which are used to clarify the sparkling wine through a sophisticated process.

Sparkling wine is made by adding sugar and yeasts into the regular wine, causing carbon dioxide and alcohol to be released and dissolved into the liquid. During this process the liquid becomes clear but at the same time floating sediments called “lees” are produced and cloud the sparkling wine.

The bottles are spun using the white line at the bottom as guide.

Every day the bottles are spun right and left, and tilted in a manner that the mouths are gradually positioned vertically under the bottles. By doing so, the lees settle near the mouth, and when the cap is removed the they are taken out, preventing the liquid from clouding.

An illustration of how and at which angle the bottles should be spun.

The wine lost during the uncapping process is augmented with wine from another uncapped bottle to 750 ml. After the bottles are corked and wired, the sparkling wines are ready. It's impressive how much effort is required to make sparkling wines!

From here on, we will introduce the wonderful facilities that have sprung up at CAVE DOCCI in response to the visitors requests.



【Garden Restaurant】

The garden restaurant is situated in the center of the winery. You can dine here viewing the amazing garden and vineyard sprawled in front of you, with the soaring Kakuda mountain and the vast sky.

Restaurant interior.

On a sunny day, we recommend to enjoy your meal sitting on the terrace, viewing the seasonal flowers blooming in the garden.

Wine offered at the restaurant Sparkling wine “Blanc de Blancs”

Both the lunch and dinner are full-course meals.
Lunch time course include: amuse, hors d'oeuvre, home-made bread, main dish, dessert, and our original coffee. CAVE DOCCI's wine pair perfectly with the dishes made from fresh vegetables, seafood and produce taken from the mountains.

Amuse Hors d'oeuvre
Home-made bread

All of the bread are made at the bakery beside the market. They are hefty and have a chewy texture. You can select 1 from the 5 main dishes: Chicken, Iberian pork, beef tenderloin, white fish.

Main dishes (From the left: Chicken thigh, Iberian pork chuck, White fish.)
Dessert

Aside from the abundant selection of CAVE DOCCI wine, they offer wine from the neighboring wineries: Fermier, Domaine Chaud, and Cantina Zio Setto.

We recommend wine tasting for those who are interested in trying a little bit of everything. You can taste 3 varieties of white for lunch and 5 varieties for dinner from the selection of wine that changes on a daily basis.

The 3 bottles of the day were: 2014 Sauvignon Semillon, 2013 Chardonnay, and 2014 Kerner.

For dinner time menu, we offer 3 types of courses. You could select 1 from the 2 "half courses", or you could have both meat and fish with the "full course,” or you may try a little bit of everything with the "chef's special course."



【CAVE DOCCI Wine Shop】

At the CAVE DOCCI wine shop, we have wine from numerous grape varieties and vintages. Sausages and cheese that accommodate your wine are also sold here.

In addition to wine, various European goods are sold: wine glasses, wine openers, cork stoppers are some of the items to enhance your wine experience. We also carry plenty of chinaware to decorate your dining tables and rare imported goods such as Irish linen.

However, when it comes to winery, it's all about the wine tasting! We understand that many visit us just for the tasting.

We have a tasting counter within the shop and you can try a glass of wine for 100 yen. By visiting our winery and listening to the producer's story, you can discover the wine's subtle taste and aroma you've never noticed, and enjoy them more than ever. Even if you don't know much about wine, the staff can inform and assist you in selecting the wine that matches your taste.

90 % of CAVE DOCCI's wines are sold through direct sales. They want to offer their wine directly to the customers, meeting them face-to-face and communicating their passion and values in the wine they make at this place.



【Restaurant Makigoya】

Restaurant interior. Sausages, hams, and bottled beer are
perfect for souvenirs.

This is the log house restaurant where the sausage factory and craft beer factory operate together. Architect Karl Bengs utilized the structures of a traditional Japanese house that is over 100 years old, and transformed it into this new building. He used the frames of a temple in the Chuetsu region, and combined the traditional Japanese house with German architecture to recreate it into this restaurant with a great ambiance.

It is a wonderful restaurant where you can enjoy craft beer, sausages and Italian-style dishes in a space filled with light and warmth of the wooden structure.



【Le Marché】

Here we have the market. Wine from CAVE DOCCI's winery, crafthomr beer and sausages from the log house, and the locally produced fresh vegetables, fruit and food products are sold here.

Delis and sweets are also available for people who are looking for a little bite with their wine, during their stay.

Also the wines are sold with explanation and the distiller's photos, so we recommend them for short visitors or last-minute shoppers.



【Bakery Cafe】

The bakery cafe is situated right beside the market. The bread is proudly made with their home-made yeast. Much care and time have been taken from the yeast production to fermentation; the bread baked in the French stone kiln has the natural wheat flavor as well as the chewy texture, and is made into this heavy, dense bread.

As a bakery cafe, drinks such as coffee, tea, and juice are offered with sweets like cake and gelatos. Inexpensive tea time menu and lunch menu are also available. In addition, that special glass of wine to pair with your bread or lunch is available, and log house's craft beer can be purchased too.



【Vinespa】

Vinespa is a hot spring / accommodation facility. Since pre-school kids cannot enter the facility, you can enjoy the quiet and tranquil ambiance. Without the TV cables, you can get away from your daily routines, and spend a peaceful time in a quiet environment enjoying the views or reading a book. You can drink the wine, take a bath in the hot spring and pamper your body at the spa. A space for adults to unwind themselves and spend a carefree and delightful moment.

Entrance Once you

If you go through the entrance into the courtyard you can see a refreshing fountain surrounded by lush garden. The structure is built around this garden, in a way that you can see the courtyard from 360 degrees.

"CAVE DOCCI Aveda" is located on the right-hand side after the entrance. Once inside, you can find the shop lined up with Aveda products, and in the corner you can see the hair salon.

CAVE DOCCI's Aveda spa is one of the attraction of Vinespa. On the top floor, you can receive facial and body treatments using essential oils at the CAVE DOCCI's Aveda spa for women. You can select from various menus: from simple relaxation to treatments for your skin and body problems, you can customize depending on your needs. It's the space to rejuvenate your body and soul.

In addition, the hair salon offers head spa for both men and women. It's the plan that is recommended at CAVE DOCCI Aveda; you can release your daily aches and stress with the aromatherapy massage which lasts about an hour.

Passing the Aveda, you can see the hot spring, which is the greatest attraction of Vinespa. Both the male and female baths have indoor and outdoor springs. You can pamper yourself in the 2 types of free-flowing hot springs while enjoying the beautiful outdoor views. Also, on the same floor, there are stone sauna, chiropractic and foot reflexology available for women.

The 2nd floor is dedicated for women. You can have a tranquil time on a relaxation chair or a sofa in the relaxation room, or spend your time in the healing room.

In the opposing building, on the left from the entrance, you can see the gallery space, lounge space and the restaurant. There are tables and chairs lined up in the lounge space, where you can enjoy drinks and gelatos while viewing the courtyard.

The floor above is a resting space for both genders. You can find a library with a selection of books, relaxation chairs for a nice afternoon siesta, and sofas in the meeting room.

Once you walk past the lounge, you can go to your residence or you can continue further into the garden spa. Garden spa has a small English garden, a private free-flowing outdoor spring that requires reservation, and a relaxation room for a carefree moment. You can enjoy a private space in groups or with a partner.

Today was the day when a bus stop was made in front of Vinespa. The local bus will begin to stop by this CAVE DOCCI. It has become more accessible than before. I hope you get an opportunity to visit this wonderful wine village "CAVE DOCCI'" in Niigata prefecture.

 

CAVE DOCCI
Address:〒953-0011Niigata prefecture, Niigata-shi, Nishikan-ku, Kakudahama 1661
Telephone:0256-77-2288(Representative 9:00~19:00), 0256-77-2811(Restaurant 9:00~19:00)
Facebook page:https://www.facebook.com/cavedocci

CAVE DOCCI

Homepagehttp://www.docci.com/index.html

 

 

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